Sunday, December 4, 2011

SEAKinNiaNAG serum



SeaKiNiaNAG  is based on the effective combination of 5% niacinamide/ vitamin B3 and N-acetyl-D glucosamine 2%. Kinetin is a potent antioxidant and signal peptide with anti aging benefits. The following is using lecithin as the emulsifier. 

Another version of KinNiaNAG using Ewax can be found at Dempeaux.com KinNiaNAG with E wax  
If you don't have the time or interest to DIY, another option : SeaKinNiaNAG Serum is available here.  
*n.b. If you are using the SeaKNN kit, you will start at #3. Measure 0.3 grams of the solution. It is best to use a syringe. The Kit is pH adjusted to 5.6. You will not need citric acid. Follow the kit instructions and weights. The tutorial is the guide to help you, one ingredient has been added based on personal preference. The procedure remains the same. 

SkinCare forum is available to ask and answer questions. SEA has been invited to participate at that venue.


Ingredients Percent  Active %
Kinetin 0.1 %
Niacinamide 5 %
N-acetyl D glucoasmine 2 %
Sea Emollient
30 %
Glycerin/ Dex Panthenol 3 %
Distilled water 24.5 %

Borage Oil
26.9%
Lecithin 5 %
Polysorbate 80 2 %
Vitamin E 1 %
1 N NaOH Sol'n + Citric Acid pH adjustment
Preservative
0.5 %


1.a. Kinetin must first go into solution, to do so, you need 0.39 grams of NaOH [ sodium hydroxide] and 10 mls of distilled water. Place the NaOH in a glass or stainless steel container, then add the 10 mls of H20. This will cause the NaOH to give off noxious fumes. Don't breathe it . It will also generate heat. Keep this off to the side until it cools down.
1.b. As a 1 N NaOH solution was made previously, the solvent is ready for use. One less step. 

2. Measure 0.03 grams of Kinetin into a small glass. Add sufficient amount to cover your crystals and stir. Set aside, and check periodically. Stir. It will go into solution. 

3.a. Weigh and combine Niacinamide , NAG , Vitamin E acetate and H20 , stir until dissolved. 

If using the SeaKNN kit, you will measure out 0.3 grams of the Kinetin 10%  solution at this point and add to the B3/NAG/H20.

3.b. If using  Dexpanthenol / glycerin, add that now.  Stir until all is in solution.
4. Add Kinetin solution.  Check the pH and adjust to pH 7.0


5. Add Sea emollient blend. Add your preservative and blend.

6. Oil/s of choice 10.50 grams and E- wax or Lecithin powder 2.20 grams combined, and heated till the lecithin melts in a double boiler.Alternatively, heat the oil.and slowly add lecithin while blending. 

7. Blend the oil and lecithin well.

8a.. Pour  the water phase while blending  into your oil and lecithin/ wax. 

Keep blending...
8.b. It is quite thick, and now add your 1) Polysorbate 80,2) Essential oils and 3) preservative. Blend.


9. Pour into a sterilized container.         

10. Done...Patch test before using.

The formula is quite stable, does not require refrigeration.
If one wishes to add Retinyl Palmitate it is quite useful and non irritating. Please go to

SEA Lab Online Calculator

if you want to make any adjustments or want to modify the batch size.

SeaKinNiaNAG Serum is available here.